The Brad Pitt of the Internet

Alber Elbaz in conversation with Suzy Menkes about his H&M-sparked internet fame and his wifey, Jean.



The incredibleness of Mr. Elbaz and his floppy bowtie cannot be overstated, and when you add Suzy "I had the original Snooki Pouf" Menkes into the mix, you have a fashion interview phenom. Also, the big/little anecdote near the end of this clip explains exactly why women nearly toss their underthings onto the Lanvin runway, he melts them and makes them feel like his big skill is for little old them. That, my friends, is how you grow a legion of fans.

Alber Teaches Us Something.

There's fashion, and there is fashion design. Fashion exists in image only--stalk-the-streets-attitude, what's next now, give it to me, make me a star. But fashion design is in the cut, the cloth, the way a garment hugs the body. Alber Elbaz is a fashion designer of the highest order. His work is crafted and thought out and reality-based; even when it's bigger or bolder than you might wear, it's still something that someone might actually wear. However, the electricity conducted by even one of his well-cut dresses is enough to fuel the Lanvin resurrection and keep things exciting at the same time. What do women want? Here, let Alber give you his take on things:




Is he not the most huggable designer you've ever seen? I mean really.

Wrapper's Delight.

Alber Elbaz is a genius with the fabrics. He's been heralded by the press du mode as the only dressmaker currently in the dressmaking business (quite a compliment, or a low blow depending on whether or not your name is Alber).

His latest collection at the Spring shows in Paris was yet another showcase of his deft talents. With an embellished, decorated sophistication, Elbaz's looks are based on a simple technique taken to its extreme deployment.

Every designer learns the basic skill of draping, but few--if any others at all--take it to the upper limit that Lanvin's current captain does. In fact, he's distinguished his technique of draping as a subcategory, it's more of a wrapping. Pick up a fabric, grab a body, and begin twisting, encircling, and layering. Finish with the finest details known in fashion's universe of colors and textures, and voila! You have a dress that most manic fashion fans would mainline if they could.

For now though, they seem to be settling for the contact high of wearing them.

Photos from SHOWstudio.

Small, Precious Things

A sampling of work from As Small As It Gets opening tonight at Art Since The Summer of '69.
Click image for details.

Dwelling in New York City definitely gives you an appreciation for the smaller things in life, and with everyone's everything shrinking, small is the big new thing. After staging ephemeral art shows in unexpected spaces across the nation, like a make-up artist's studio and an existing retail store, gallery Art Since the Summer of '69 is christening their new permanent space on Chrystie Street with a show called As Small As It Gets. Size queens (and kings) will have to reconsider their priorities, as all of the works in the exhibit are smaller than 15".

A Ligia Dias piece inspired by the work of Robert Morris. Click image for source.

One of the featured artists in the show is jewelery maker Ligia Dias. Dias' industrial materials (rope, metal washers, chains) are mixed with a sculptor's finesse and pretty, precious things to create Robert Morris-inspired pieces. Alber Elbaz liked her work so much that he invited Ligia to join his staff at Lanvin where they collaborated to create the house's jewels for three successful years. Rei Kawakubo is also a huge fan, and Dias' noose and pearl necklaces added heaps of edgy cool to Phillip Lim's Spring/Summer '08 collection. Digas' work is part of the small offering from As Small As It Gets and can be seen at the exhibit, which runs through July 15th.

Model Tee

Artist Dana Veraldi of DEERDANA does my inner fashion geek good. She draws caricatures of fashion's most phenomenal characters (Bill Cunningham, Andre Leon Talley, Hamish Bowles) and even models like Agyness Deyn and prints them on tees and totes. I totes love them.

That's Alber Elbaz, Mr. Bowles, Bill "Snappy" Cunningham, St. Yves, Purple Olivier, and Tentastic ALT. Click 'em to get 'em.

Alber Gets the Girls.

This is an older interview from The New York Times with Mr. Alber Elbaz, the genius designer behind Lanvin, who is one of my fashion loves. This former Israeli soldier has the most brilliant visual sense. His draping, his odd choices, his ability to make dresses that manifest female desire, it's all unique to him. I also really love his round-rimmed glasses and bow ties. Really love them.

I can't stop watching this interview, and there is a profile of him that appeared in The New Yorker's style issue that keeps coming up in conversations with my friends. Both bits of journalism made me realize that his clothes are as amazing as they are because he somehow really understands being a woman. He talks about it a lot, the perfectionism that women have to contend with, the body image issues they have, and he shares those hang-ups as well. He demands perfection of himself, he struggles with his weight and shape. His clothes are rare in the fashion industry because they are really for women. The sex appeal of Lanvin clothing is not in the display of cleavage and buttocks (which he makes brilliant mention of in the video), it is in the shape and sharpness. There is something smart about his work, something so subtle and styled just right that makes the wearer look sophisticated and strong, but still has that magic feminine quality. The first time I ever heard of Elbaz, was when a fashion insider made a comment about his female friends being obsessed with the Lanvin look, like it was some sort of illicit substance. Turns out it is; it's smart feminine sexiness with an air of sophistication. It's powerful stuff, addictive even. Designer drug.

Draped to Thrill

That certain je ne sais quoi that is the essence of French chic was in full effect on Lanvin's SS '09 runway. Alber Elbaz is a master craftsman, but not the type who will fashion 10,000 butterfly wings out of hand-spun silk thread to adorn a glama-gown. Instead, he takes the simple act of draping to new levels of art. The expert seaming of his silky sheaths sent gentle ripples through seemingly liquid fabric.

French women are notorious for thier renowned sense of style that always appears effortless, innate. But, even if you were born on this side of the seas, you can slip on one of these Lanvin pieces and instantly claim sartorial success.

Images: Don Ashby & Olivier Claisse (details) and Marcio Madeira (full shots) for Style.com