Dollars and Sense.

Couture is a tricky sell amidst a climate of financial strain and humanitarian disaster; and not just in terms of dollars, but more in terms of sense. How much sense does it make to revere or celebrate a dress that could clothe a large village if you traded it for equal value at Target? That's the obvious question looming over the start of this particular season of couture shows in Paris; but isn't that always the question? Couture has been happening come snow, sleet, natural disaster, economic breakdown, feast, war, or famine for centuries now. It is a practice and a spectacle that exists largely in a bubble of wealth and comfort that few of us will ever know directly. But, thanks to the ever-increasing media coverage of high fashion, many of us will know it as the fantasy that it is. I won't apologize for reveling (and disappearing) in the beauty of it.

If I didn't have the escapism offered by the pretty people and things of fashion, I would have been gone or gonzo long, long ago. That sounds dramatic doesn't it? But in times of stress or emotional unrest, the sight of a perfectly formed Dior couture gown fresh from the hands of the undeniably haughty and theatrical Mr. John Galliano is enough to make my soul sigh in relief. I can't help it. Ethics aside, I have a visceral reaction to the pretty things of fashion. They make me happy. When I'm happy I can make others happy. Therefore, I'm going to watch a parade of sparkle and satin in jewel tones as The Telegraph's Hilary Alexander sings its praises. Won't you join me?


Le sigh.

You Look So Pretty In Your Underwear.

Will I ever get tired of looking at pretty things? No. Watching couture move is a special experience. It's enchanting.

Master Class with John Galliano

Here's a rare chance to hang out with Mr. John Galliano for a little private tour of some of the highlights of the Dior archive. The dresses come both from Mr. Dior's own, historic work and Galliano's decade plus of diligent service to the house of Dior. They look almost as fab as John himself-- almost.



This video was actually made in 2006 to celebrate Galliano's ten year mark at the helm of the house. I can't wait to see the retrospective of the 15 year mark. His work is always fascinating and a little, dare I say, crazy. What a treat to hear him discuss it in private, and in his lilting, effete voice, no less! Thanks internets!

While we are on the subject of John Galliano, I need to fawn over his unbelievable collection of exit photos. His final wave and walk outfits at his shows are immensely enjoyable. Here's just a few:






A rapier, a space suit, some payos, a rake? Loves it.

Photos are all from Style.com.

Bloody Merry

Happy Friday the 13th! I was riding a bunch of elevators today and marveling at the depth of our superstition surrounding the number 13 every time we skipped past the twelfth floor and arrived directly at the fourteenth. Our fear goes deep! In honor of this auspicious day (Holiday?) I'm presenting one of fashion's all time spookiest collections courtesy of John Galliano for Christian Dior. The show is from the Spring Couture season of 2006 and did blood and gore enough beautiful justice to raise the dead. Mix Galliano's French Revelution-inspired slasher couture with Pat McGrath's deadly makeup skills and you've got a frighteningly gorgeous presentation. Here's a look back:

The garments were slashed and torn and then beaded and lacquered in various shades of red, shiny materials to look blood soaked and spotted.

The best/goriest part was the deadly makeup, ingeniously designed and applied by McGrath to make the beautiful models look horrendous. Offset by red dipped pearl necklaces looking like wounds dripping with blood, the collection was a slashing success.

My personal favorite part, however, had to be Mr. Galliano's deadly serious exit walk. Armed with a rapier, he made it quite clear that he was responsible for all of the carnage.

All photos from the archives on Style.com.

Hair Apparent

I'm not crazy about Galliano's new couture collection for Dior. He's gone all Dutch on us. While I can never knock his immensely impressive craftsmanship and his "dream my little dream" fantasy mentality, I suppose my fashion dreams just don't involve stiff, overstuffed Flemish Master Painter-inspired gowns because I'm not feeling this collection.

It reminds me a bit too much of stuffy living room upholstery, and giant window treatments. You know what I do love, though? The hair:

I know, it's crazy. It's a lion's mane of crimped tresses all sewn through with string and braided in corn rows. It seems to be showing the underpinnings of a wigged woman, the behind the scenes, undone state of something meant to be more pristine. I love it. See, that makes it into my fantasy land. Big hair does it for me. Something undone does it for me.

Photos: full body: Alessandro Lucioni/Imax Tree; details: Matteo Volta/Imax Tree; all via Style.com

Gift It: Liner Note

I'm not a spluger. I'm a thrifty girl through and through. In fact, the only way I usually acquire spendy items is if I receive them as gifts. For instance, I would never think to drop $25 on an eyeliner. I would be searching the aisle of the drugstore for a cheapo alternative thinking, "Why would anyone spend $25 on a black pencil when you can get this one for a dollar?" I'll tell you why. The quarter-of-a-hundo black Waterproof Dior Crayon Eyeliner that I received as a gift a few years back went on so smooth and easy, and with such inky blackness that I couldn't believe my eyes (or how great they looked).

Now I love to give little luxuries as gifts. Here's the strategy: Indulge in small items with relatively higher ticket prices for a big impact, and love the smiles you get in return. As a side note, that glorious eye pencil lasted me a nice long time. It was the gift that just kept giving (thanks Tuhanny!).

Get your loved ones a Dior Crayon Eyeliner from Sephora.com.

The Queen of Makeup

Buried under the fearful financial headlines on today's Times site is a lovely escape from the stress in the form of a video about Pat McGrath. The recently feted and fabulous Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune rightfully calls McGrath "The Queen of Makeup". The woman is an absolute artist and her collaborations with John Galliano are always a highpoint of any fashion week.

She can do it all, from otherworldly to simply beautiful.

Images: Style.com

Barely There is Everywhere

Ok, so the trend fairies have struck again. Once more I'm wondering where the secret hideout is. Where is it that all the designers show up and hash out the rules for the season? Who decided that every third look in every major collection has to be see-through? Galliano has definitely kept up his end of the trend pact. His Dior show was full of barely there offerings.

Now before you get tempted to rip the linings out of all of your old clothes from last Spring, please carefully consider the inherent obstacles in dressing for show. You must pay extra special attention to your undergarments. Do not throw on some Hanes and expect to look elegant, people. Success with this look will require your most careful consideration. I beg of you, think long and hard about everything beneath the surface.

As an aside, I have to compliment Mr. Galliano on his diva stance. Perfect form John!


Images: Vogue.fr

She plays hard for her money.

Victoire de Castellane is the creative director for Dior's Jewelry line and I've always loved her big, fun, candy-colored creations.

Even better is her big, fun, candy-colored imagination. Take a tour of her workspace to see what sparks her fancy.

I especially love when she refers to a box full of florescent lanyards as "all those plastic scooby doos". Can I be her when I (don't) grow up?

Pretty safe.

While I was busy eating hummus in the holy land, the Spring '09 fashion jet took off. I've been catching up on the shows for the last few days while trying to avoid unpacking (as I find that's the quickest way to lose my vacation buzz) and I must admit I might have preferred sorting my dusty desert laundry.

I started with the Women's Couture shows, and honestly I'm not so thrilled. There are a lot of pretty things, but nothing is jumping out at me. As always, there are beautifully constructed garments: amazing draping, tailoring, seaming. I'm just not finding any collection that inspiring or strong. I really loved the last batch of ready-to-wear collections, with their fresh patchwork-pastiche aesthetic so I'm disappointed to be goosebumpless after perusing the couture shows which usually thrill me to no end.

I can't help but think things are looking a bit safe. Even Galliano pulled in the reigns a bit, presenting some very classically Christian Dior get-ups.



Again, pretty and incredibly well constructed but not so exciting. Can we blame the economy? I say so. Even the world of $30,000 dresses gets timid in the face of a downturn.

The season isn't a total loss though. There is nothing like couture to prove that God is in the details. Check out these beautiful tight shots courtesy of Style.com:




Chanel seams, tubes and flowers.


Lacroix's red ruffles and clothing collage.


Hot orange peek-a-boo at Gaultier.

More coverage to come, including the old people trend and the Weird Wears Awards! Yee haw.

I want to run down the street in it.

I want to twirl in it.

Two Dior dresses for two very different day(or night)dreams. A dark train rustling behind me as I run barefoot down a cobbled street at twilight in some glowing European city. A light, sparkle sprinkled confection of a dress built for twirling. A girl can dream...