The Ooooooo '00s: Best Fashion Ad

I'm gonna give out some end of the decade awards over the next few days because that's what people with blogs do when a decade ends, right? Although, did anyone have a blog the last time a decade ended? Hmmm, I don't think so. No matter; let the awarding begin!

My award for Best Fashion Ad goes to the team at Marc Jacobs for bagging Victoria Beckham.

The brilliance of this ad is like a million fold. Shot by Juergen Teller for a 2008 campaign, the stark ad threw out the celebrity obsession, literally. The industry's over hyped infatuation and exploitation of the idea of celebrity was at a fever pitch in '08, and Marc was at its flaming hot center. With show delays hitting the two hour mark because of tardy flashbulb seeking fashionistas, Marc caught tons of fed-up flack from editors, writers, and buyers who said "Enough with the celeb ass-kissing, we have a business to run here!" So, in a brilliant message to the masses, Marc took one of his greatest offenders, the preening, pouting, designer-wanabe Victoria Beckham and friggin' bagged her. Those are her over-bronzed legs hanging out of that large shopping bag in those phenomenally quirky sideways heels. Not long after he published this ad, Jacobs took on a new role: as the task master of fashion shows that started at the moment they were called for, and no later. In fact, in his most recent run of shows, Jacobs disinvited any non-essentials--meaning no special celeb guests (well, except for Madonna of course) leaving all the prime seats for the buyers and the business folk. And, in taking these anti-celeb measures Marc garnered even more press. He's smart, that one.

Wow! Congrats Marc, you also win the door prize for most insane tattoos!

You can share it with the M&Ms and Spongs Bob and Cartman and your dog. I know that's a lot of sharing, but that's a lot of tattoos.

Here, Kitten, Wear These.

Missoni's wee kitten heels. Purr.

Kitten heels help a fumbly fashionista put her best foot forward. With their slight, skinny heels, they are much easier to navigate than sky high stilettos. Since towering, toe torturing devices passing for shoes have been all the fashion rage for a solid season and a half, you know we are in for a complete switch to some flatter options.

Marni's mere mention of heels.

Kitten heels made a few appearances on the runways for the upcoming season, most notably at Marc Jacobs, Marni, and Missoni. I've always been curious at to why kitten heels are named that, and it turns out it's because before you became a full grown meower in the '60s you were a cute kitty in training. Kitten heels were developed for the teen set to wear as initiation at their debut balls or fancy events. While stilettos would have been unseemly for the young among us, a slight heel was considered good taste and good practice for the girls pre-womanhood. As the practiclity of unstable footware folded in the '70s and '80s, the kitten heel became popular with the above 15 crowd and became a work wardrobe staple. Now, because it wasn't cool last season, and you probably don't own any kitten heels, they are again poised to become the next must have.

Marc Jacob's minis for Louis Vuiton.

You know, I think you can actually take your higher heels to a skilled shoe repair man and have them cut down to size. There are limitations on how much they can be shortened, but it's worth a shot. That'll save you a few bucks now in shopping expenses and a few more bucks later in chiropractor bills. It's a win, win.

Images from Style.com.

Sketch Me A Dream.

I have to admit, my love for Marc Jacobs is often tempestuous, like a storm that I can't really predict. Sometimes praise and adulation for him torrentially pours out of my being, and other times the feelings are cold, dusty, and dry. Although I'm not always a personal fan of his offerings (I did not for the life of me understand or desire any of his '80s on steroids garb from last season), I nearly always find something in either of his collections that indicates his preternatural ability to single-handedly push mass fashion culture in a new direction. He's on the crest of the wave of popular opinion, in fact I think he may be creating it at this point in time. He gets what women are willing to wear and gives it a thorough dusting of his brand of "be cool now". It takes a special kind of designer to sell all sorts of ephemera simply because it's stamped with a name, and Marc is king of the heap on that level. That, however, is not all he's capable of; if it were, there would be no real interest in him as a fashion designer, he would be more of a salesman, a businessman. Marc can sometimes hit both notes, the sellable and the awe-inspiring. When he does strike that chord just right, it's a beautiful thing. Take for example, the closing dress from his most recent collection:

It's a shame that this image is so small (catch a bigger glimpse here) because the dress is a masterful example of lightness. It's layers of sheer fabric are edged in thin, black, border stitching.

The effect is of a designer's quick ink sketch come to full, diaphanous life. It's remarkable. It's a wearable line drawing. I can almost hear the scratch of a calligrapher's pen against a fine quality cotton paper when I look at it. Worn over loose, sheer leggings, and with simple, pretty flats, it's a whisper of chic. It's as light as the sigh I'm breathing imagining wearing it. Ah, sigh...

Photos from Style.com.

Marc Before the Market Crashed.

The opening of this French documentary is in super high contrast to the current state of fashion affairs. I love the creepy vibe the doc creates, as if the filmmakers somehow knew that all of this pomp (pigeon costumes, Venice balls, chock-full front rows) would soon fall victim to circumstance. This peek into Marc Jacobs's working life is a as much a look at where all the money went as it is at the quirky process of a very gifted designer. His heavily tattooed house model, inspiration boards filled with photos of lingerie donning doggies, and his rolly-chair technique are worth the view. This will be in someone's timecapsule as an excellent example of the extravagance that was. Watch the other parts and wonder what the sequel will look like. Here's Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5, Part 6.

Quick Turnaround

Ok, so yesterday I was so annoyed at Marc Jacobs for putting on a show with obvious, heavy-handed, '80s rehashing. But today, upon viewing his Marc by Marc Jacobs presentation, I'm delightfully...confused. I love the feeling I get when I look at something that has not been shown to me in quite that way before. My brain wants to reject it, say it doesn't work (and sometimes it doesn't) but I have a sneaking suspicion that somehow I am just witnessing newness. The mash-up that Marc by Marc presented was full of familiar shapes but in diferent combinations and really walked quite far away from the predominant look of strong, sex-ed up, stompiness that is streaming out of other shows, and this is supposed to be his younger line.

The layers upon layers, and cozy materials with the forgiving, roomy shapes are a real girl's friend. I don't think the show is entirely attractive, and it kind of seems like an ode to daffy, wilderness-loving, old aunts everywhere, but there's something about the pops of color and pattern combos that keeps it fresh and wearable. I'm a sucker for the layers done that way too. It makes things look cozy and andro, but interesting. I want to have conversations and unsweetned cinamon hot chocolate with these girls. I wouldn't expect to like it, but I do. It's heavy and agey, but fresh in a weird way. I also like some of the men's looks. They are approachable but hip enough.

That's what the collection is: comfortable and approachable, yet hip enough. Nice rebound, Mr. Fan-of-Kilts.

Photos: Marcio Madeira for Style.com

Mark Wahlberg Should Talk to Fashionable Yetis.

I love this pic of Carine Roitfeld and Cecilia Dean backstage at the Marc Jacobs show:

I kind of imagine them preening each other's coats like two fastidious and super-fashionable yeti creatures just before the cameras arrived. I absolutely mean that in the most inoffensive way imaginable. If these two were fictional wild creatures, I would be a tunnel-digging mole. Actually, this picture makes me think that former Calvin Klein pants-dropper Mark "Marky Mark" Wahlberg should talk to a new breed of animals next time he makes an appearance on SNL. Remember this?



Oh man, I still love that! I would die to see Mark have a talk with the most fashionable Yeti creatures this side of...wherever Yetis may come from. "Marky Mark Talks To Fashion Creatures!"

Ok, maybe I'm not over my FWO (see below post). This may be the weirdest post I've ever written. No offense Carine, and Cecila. It's not you, it's me.

Photo from The New York Times

Minimus Maximus

Here are some laws of physics, nature, what have you: "every action has an equal and opposite reaction," "every expansion yields a contraction." These axioms came to mind when I saw Marc Jacobs's collection for Fall 2009. Jacobs is the kind of designer that runs when others walk, that goes up when others are down, and who feigns the "eff-its" when everyone else is holding on tight. Sometimes, like last season, his non-conformist tendencies make him a hero of mold-breaking, and give him the bright, hotspot among the same-same shows that roll out one after another.

When done right, his sense of adventure, his bucking of the trend actually creates the trend, and plays with ideas to make something new. But, sometimes he reverts to simple rebellion. His latest collection seems an obvious Jacobsism: go for more when everyone is talking about less. Yes, it grabs attention and keeps his brand in the spotlight, creating ample PR opportunities, and an abundance of links to stories on the recession. But, I just have to ask, does the world really need another version of the '80s prom dress? I agree that the idea of this economic downturn is tiresome, but I'd prefer a protest with new ways of thinking, looking, acting, feeling. Opening the attic doors of the '80s and it's maximalism with maybe a tad more shine and a twist of the '60s is not brilliant, it's done. It's true, I have incredibly high standards for Mr. Jacobs, but this collection is what Ms. Job, my quirky-yet-wise 9th grade English teacher, would have called an "I GO," or in layman's terms: an Instant Grasp of the Obvious. Even though Ms. Job had very questionable taste in ensembles (where do teachers get that gear?), I think she would agree with this assessment. Here are some images of the '80s rehash:

I smell Electric Youth sprayed on A Flock of Seagulls.

Photos by Marcio Madeira for Style.com.

Monumentally Weird

My Dad is a Garmento. Actually, I'm exceedingly proud of my paternal heritage which is a long line of men who bought, hawked, measured, sewed, tailored, imported or manufactured clothing for the masses. This means that I've spent many days throughout my life in and around the Garment District joyously eating bagels or deli sandwiches (depending on the time of day) and witnessing men with bellies and slicked back hair talk about how much business sucks. But, in all of my days tagging along with my Father to work, I've never quite seen anything like what I saw today. In the last year my Dad moved office buildings and when I went to visit him in his new spot today, I stumbled upon something astonishing. Ladies and gentlemen, I present to you the:

This lovely little display lines the lobby of 533 Seventh Avenue. It is a lineup of silver busts of America's top fashion designers stuck on acrylic poles and labeled with gold name-bearing plaques.

Thank god for the plaques...let's take a closer look shall we?

Now even before I give you the corresponding gold plaques, can you put a name to a single one of those faces? Maybe the hair gives away the ladies, but I swear I stood in amazement at who the gray heads were meant to be. Here's who we've got above:

Poor Isaac, right? I mean that must be some sort of mistake. And Marc? He looks like the love child of Sting and a Ken doll. Are they not scary in that way that clowns are scary? I really want to find out if the designers have ever seen these. Maybe they were invited to some really awkward unveiling ceremony where they had to pick themselves out of the lineup and failed, miserably. Oh, these are so classic. I almost think they need to be seen in the round to be fully appreciated. So, if you ever want to see them in person, holler at me and I'll put together a tour group.

Closet Case: Blaire Walsh

Blaire emerges from her own Narnia.

I met Blaire Walsh a few years back as a fellow Art History student on the sunset soaked streets of Paris, and I new instantly that she was also a fellow fashion lover. I think the first conversation we ever had was about Longchamp bags, which she was determined to snag and take home for lower-than-American Parisian prices.

Blaire's beautiful scarf collection: (l to r) a black and white silk floral from Galleries Lafayette in Paris; vintage Puccis; a wild Hermes.

Blaire has always been my sophisticated shopper friend. She has a closet full of fancy at bargain basement prices. Her pieces are pretty, detail-oriented, and versatile with an emphasis on quality. She has impeccable taste and buys with the long-term in mind, eschewing trends for classic wears.

A sweet Marc Jacobs sweater.

Blaire's interest in art and design definitely shows in her wardrobe, as well as in her career. To put bread on the table and shoes in the closet, Blaire works at The New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission where she oversees the restoration of historic landmarks in the big city. I think it sounds very dream job (even though she routinely lets me in on the behind the scenes grit work). This means that she is one hell of a block walking/shopping partner. Did you know the Baby's R Us on Union Square is housed in three original row houses from the 1800's? Neither did I until I went for a walk with Ms. Walsh.

Blaire always wins the discount margin game we play. This Marc Jacobs dress was originally over $400, Ms. Walsh scored it for about $70 at a super Saks sale.

Blaire's a smart cookie. And, those smarts carry over into her closet. She is an informed consumer. She always knows about where the good sales are, sample and otherwise. She keeps up-to-date via daily inbox drops from Racked and Daily Candy. At sales Blaire routinely scores great pieces, like a smokey sapphire Marc Jacobs party dress, for way below retail ($70-something instead of $400-something).

In warm weather Blaire prefers skirts. I love the floral one at left. The one on the right was purchased for $1.99 on the clearance rack!

Blaire was raised in Jersey and has a roster of go-to vintage and thrift shops outside of the city, mostly in Asbury Park and Red Bank. Closer to home, which is now Williamsburg, she actually makes good use of the L Train and rails it over to Manhattan to raid the racks of Leohmanns, The Gap, Banana Republic, J.Crew, and Anthropologie. Even though the stores are common, Blaire's mix of quality Jersey thrift and big names keeps her looking polished and fresh.

The girl knows how to shoe shop! At top is a great pair of tangerine, wooden-heeled pumps from J.Crew; (bottom, l to r) a coral pair of strappy Nine West heels scored at Marshall's; a wicked pair of yellow, satin spikes from Forever 21; a much-loved pair of burgundy and black heels from BCBG.

Another thing to know about Blaire is that she gives and gets great gifts (so get on her good side!). With her eye for quality and her thriftiness, Blaire always seems to find the perfect little luxury to bestow upon her nearest and dearest. Her gift giving skills do not go unrewarded. From vintage jewelry to Marc Jacobs sweaters, some of Blaire's favorite pieces have been gifts. She and her friends scoop up vintage Pucci scarves whenever they spot them to have on hand for the next gift giving occasion.

When it comes to jewelry, Blaire prefers the real deal. Top is the ivory and gold flower charm her mother gave as a gift to her wedding party; below left is a 100" string of pearls draped over a vintage Vogue cover; below right is a c.1925 silver and diamond pin purchased as a graduation gift at an estate sale.

One of Blaire's keys to sartorial success is her process of deliberation. She will take items home to decide if they make the closet cut or not. She's fastidious about holding onto receipts (I swear I've never seen such neatly kept paperwork. I think she must iron them!) and takes full advantage of return policies; if she gets something home and just isn't feeling it anymore, back to the store it goes!

Blaire's box-o-receipts. So crisp!

Blaire actually let me in on the the decision making process, trying on a few items that she had recently purchased but wasn't sure of. Once she gets the items home, she can give them an audition with what she's got and see if a pair of shoes or the right belt might save a dress from the doldrums.

Blaire adds the perfect finishing touch to an okay gray dress, cinching it with her mother's turquoise belt from the '80s, which Blaire rescued from a family garage sale.

Blaire reviews a recent Banana Republic purchase.

Blaire's closet is well thought-out and edited. She doesn't have too many items that she doesn't love. The details are important and her strong preferences keep her collection distinct. She has a system, and it works. She knows where the goods are, and what's good for her. She said many people come to her for fashion advice, and you can certainly count me among the many. I trust her to tell me the scoop and the truth. That's invaluable and makes her more than stylish, it makes her a quality find!

A few more of Blaire's hits: A Milly top; one of her super-cute dry cleaning bags; a Velvet dress.

Thanks for the tour, Blaire!