Warp and weft are the two directions that threads lay in a woven piece of cloth. The warp runs vertical to the finished edge of the cloth while the weft runs horizontal.
The idea of integrating two directions of thread so that they become swaths of fabric, for dress or home, is ancient. There are garments fully constructed of harvested materials spun into thin threads and woven into cloth older (millennia older) than the mere idea of Jesus himself. The practice of weaving cloth is a godly one. Not to sound all ecclesiastical or nothin', but look at the fabric of your shirt. Take it in your hand and examine it close. See the interlocked threads? See them looping in and out, over and under each other. See that intricate pattern? Your shirt is probably made by machine, but imagine the incredible skill of a worker constructing that same cloth with their own hands. It's almost impossible to picture how it's done. I can tell you that there is a frame of wood, a couple of crossbars, lots of yarns of identical length strung in careful order over one of the crossbars. I can tell you that a wooden piece known as a shuttle goes between two layers of threads to create a weave, but can you picture that? I couldn't either. But, thanks to the combined efforts of Ms. Desiree Koslin, textile structure extraordinaire and her assemblage of Youtube weaving clips, I don't have to try and imagine it, I can watch it happen. Here are clips of all types of weaving going on all over the world.
A warp weighted loom experiment in America:
Two sisters weaving in Guatemala:
Weaving around a common pillar in Indonesia:
Rhythmic cloth making in Ghana:
A rare draw loom in Fez:
Maybe this is too much unwanted technical information for your fashion loving brain, but each and every one of your most favorite garments and coveted items of clothing come off of a loom (either mechanical or hand done). I for one love seeing the macro and micro of fashion.
I want a loom. Who's with me? We can get one here. Eh?
I remember hearing about the documentary Secondhand (Pepe) last year, and it seems timely to highlight it now. It is a pair of filmmakers' sonic and visual journey through the culture of secondhand clothing. A segment of the film focuses on Haiti and its booming Pepe business. Pepe is the Haitian word for worn but coveted secondhand clothing. A countrywide peddler's business has grown up around the cast off clothing of America. In the '60s huge pallets of used American clothing started flowing into country via ships at Port au Prince. Peddlers would purchase the clothing and set up shop selling it on the cheap to Haitians wanting the look of America without the unpayable prices. Customers would hunt through piles of used clothes to find items cool enough to be labeled "Hollywood Pepe". But, cool didn't always sell people on the idea of wearing someone else's garments. In order for Pepe to become the business it has, the people of Haiti have had to overcome the idea that someone else's stuff carries someone else's aura, which could mean bad spirits.
Most have gotten past the aura theory, but Pepe is still not without its negatives for some. Seamstresses, or anyone selling clothing that isn't Pepe, have stiff competition. With used going for pocket change, there's not much of a market for new. But, all in all the Pepe industry in Haiti proves something that we unfortunately keep being reminded of again and again--the resilience of the Haitian people. They are strong and smart, innovative and tough. If only we could know they were all of those things without the hardships. My heart goes out to all of those in Haiti and their friends and families around the world.
As I've posted before, I quite enjoy the sights and smells of laundry day. That combined with my ridiculously unending curiosity led me to ask this question: What is laundry day like in other countries? To find out I did some Sunday investigating. Here's a peak into the laundry rooms of some of the far corners of the world:
In Mumbai the hand washing operation is staggering:
They really beat the dirt out of those clothes.
Here's a drive by view of laundry time on the street in China:
Boys in Africa do some bucket washing near a watering hole:
In Iceland, white laundry blows in the wind.
Apparently, in Japan you hang your laundry on your roof with your children on your head.
Sun drying saves energy in Spain:
Such gorgeous colors in this video.
Finally, if you are Uncle Buck you do laundry in the microwave.
Before the fashionistas invade Tokyo for Japan's Fashion Week (show season is like a really slow-paced Olympic event for the high heeled set!) there's still more to explore elsewhere. Ann Torfs is a talented young designer from Antwerp whose Frida Kahlo/Gypsy mash-up aesthetic totally caught my eye on Dazed Digital. The images above are from her Kaleidoscope Alchemy show from a little while back, but her vision remains the same. Once the rest of the world catches wind of her charming color storm, I'm sure there will be much more coverage of her shows. Stay tuned.
The traveling fashion circus that is "Fashion Week" made a stop in Copenhagen from August 6th to the 10th. The shows are weird yet very watchable with great soundtracks and can be seen in their entirety at CFW's official website. My favorite is Heartmade's offering for a few reasons: 1) There is as much color in the crowd as there is on the runway. 2) The incessant self-fanning of the audience members really highlights the blazing fireplace stage set. 3) The clothes remind me of the peacocks in the Bronx zoo that I love so much.
Staycation is the new buzzy thing to do. I'm globe hopping through my modem, exploring far corners through style sites. Here's what the rest of the world is up to...
Berlin Stil In Berlin I love the way this dress looks like an optical illusion, like each of its tiers could do a 360 independent of the others.
I'm headed to Israel tomorrow. Yay! My Pops did me a solid. His half of my genetic makeup qualifies me for a Birthright trip. I'll be touring the country from Mt. Masada to the Old City with a bunch of other twenty somethings for 10 days. I'll be absent from the internets, but I'll be present for flafel and spiritual awakenings galore.
In honor of my trip I post here a link to the Tel Aviv street style site The Streets Walker. Check out an exciting sampling of what I'm in for:
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