Miuccia Prada's Spring/Summer 2010 collection was all cut seams and raw hems at first.
The grayish black coats, pants, shorts, and tops that meandered down the black and white runway were pressed flat, with crisp pleats and a sheen. The shapes were deceptively simple in their flatness, giving the clothes a stiff character, but then the backs of the garments slightly draped or jetted away from the models' bodies.
By using circles, squares, rectangles, triangles, and the occasional flourish of a twist, Prada eschewed the overwhelming trend towards flouncy drapery and frilly fuss that's been on every catwalk of late. Then, amidst the heavy, shiny grays a beach scene emerged.
Prints of a hazy, faded, seaside setting relieved the darkness and gave the clothes a pop of paradise. Yet, the sulfurous yellow and smoggy, smoke-colored washes on the prints either aged the scene, making it look like a distant memory, or took some of the carefree levity out of the usual beach ephemera. The blankets, umbrellas, sunbathers, and palm trees are rendered in washed out hues. Prada's prints say maybe we can find a bright landscape again once the clouds pass; but, if they don't pass, then we'll have to make due. We'll have to paint our pouts a bright red hue, muss our hair, and just find a new cool.
The crystal pieces, I'm sure, were much more effective in person. But even without the shimmer and dazzling shine of the chandelier-like wares in the photos, you can tell that the bejeweled shift dresses and bedazzled separates were intended to offer clear light. A sparkly refresher after a hazy sunset.
Photos from SHOWstudio.